Newsletter

Mars Petcare US, the maker of pet food brands Pedigree, Ol' Roy and others, has announced a voluntary recall of products manufactured at its Everson, Pennsylvania facility because of potential Salmonella contamination.

While there have been no reports of pets becoming ill from the food, Mars Petcare US has voluntarily recalled the food produced between Feb. 18 and July 29 of 2008 at its Everson facility.

Owners can check the UPC code on pet food packages to see if the food is affected by the recall. For all Mars Petcare US products except Pedigree foods, recalled products will have "17" as the first two digits on the second line on the UPC information. Example:

Best By Feb 18 09
17 1445 1

Pedigree products have a slightly different UPC code and date format than other products. Consumers who purchased Pedigree should look for "PAE" on the bottom line - the sixth, seventh and eighth digits. Example:

PEDIGREE (R) Small Crunchy Bites
Best Before 02/2009
808G1PAE01 12:00

A complete list of recalled products and corresponding UPC information can be found at the Food and Drug Administration's website and at the Mars Petcare US website.

Symptoms of Salmonella in pets may include lethargy, diarrhea, fever and vomiting. Some pets may have only decreased appetite, fever and abdominal pain. In some cases, animals can carry the Salmonella infection with no visible symptoms and potentially infect other animals or humans. If your pet has consumed the recalled product or has these symptoms, please contact your veterinarian immediately.

To prevent the spread of Salmonella, the FDA recommends pet owners follow the safe pet food handling guidelines outlined here. If you have questions about the recall, call Mars Petcare US at 1-877-568-4463 or visit www.petcare.mars.com.

A $24 million settlement has been reached in the 2007 Menu Foods pet food recall incident. Pet owners whose pets died or were sickened by the contaminated pet food are entitled to file a claim for a portion of the settlement following a federal court ruling on Oct. 15.

The settlement brings a partial close to the largest pet food in history. In March 2007, Menu Foods, a Canada-based pet food manufacturer, recalled more than 60 million units of pet food after the food was found to be tainted with melamine, an industrial chemical commonly found in plastics. Pets that ate the tainted food suffered kidney failure and the U.S. Food and Drug Administration received more than 17,000 complaints regarding the food from pet owners. Though there are no official records regarding the number of pets killed by the tainted food, the Veterinary Information Network estimated the contamination caused between 2,000 and 7,000 deaths and cost pet owners between $2 million and $20 million in health care costs.

Pet owners have until Nov. 24 to file claims. Forms can be downloaded at www.petfoodsettlement.com. Following the recall, more than 100 class action lawsuits were filed in the U.S. and Canada against Menu Foods and approximately 30 other companies, including pet food distributors and retailers. Menu Foods claims it has spent more than $65 million so far as part of the recall. According to the Associated Press, more than 10,000 people have so far filed claims, with the average claim valued at $1,500. An independent arbiter will review all claims filed.

As part of the settlement, pet owners will be reimbursed for health care costs, including "veterinary screening or treatment bills, expenses related to our pet's illness and/or death, and other expenses such as lost wages and property damage," according to a statement on the settlement website. Documentation of these expenses is required. In addition, pet owners may also recover up to $900 for the "fair market value" of the deceased pet. According to a statement on the settlement website, any money left over in the settlement fund after all claims have been settled will be donated to pet-related charities. Not all pet owners involved in the suit were happy with the decision, though - according to the Associated Press, a few dozen owners formally objected to the settlement because it does not compensate pet owners for pain and suffering due to the loss of their pet.

Melamine-contaminated wheat gluten imported from China and used in the production of the pet food was found to be the source of the contamination. An investigation revealed that importers frequently add melamine to food products in order to increase the protein count of the food, which in turn would increase profits.

Though two of the Chinese companies responsible for the contamination were shut down and a U.S. grand jury issued 26 indictments related to the case, the pet food recall was just the first in a series of recalls involving products imported from China. Recalls of everything from childrens toys to toothpaste were announced in 2007, and in October 2008, the Chinese government ordered a massive recall of all liquid and powdered milk products made in September 2008 due to melamine contamination. While the FDA has instituted a pilot program to help alert pet owners should a future pet food recall occur, other reforms have been slow in coming.

When it's time to give your dog a bath, you should be well prepared for the process. Not only is it important to have the know-how for bathing your pet, it is also important to be well organized.

Dogs are not similar to people and should only be bathed when they are dirty or when they need a flea or medicinal bath. Over-bathing removes the natural oils in their skin and fur, and can leave the skin dried out and flaky. Dry flaky skin very often results in scratching. Frequent bathing also reduces the coat's insulative and waterproofing capacities. However, certain dog breeds that are prone to skin conditions benefit from regular bathing. Cocker spaniels, for example, benefit when bathed every 6-8 weeks.

When selecting a shampoo, it's best to use a good quality shampoo that is specifically formulated for dogs. Don't use a human shampoo. They are not formulated for a dog's skin or coat. A conditioner (also formulated for dogs) is a good idea, particularly if there are tangles and lots of knots.

To start, the best place to bathe your dog is in the bathtub or in a utility tub. If you plan to bathe your dog outdoors, make sure your hose has both hot and cold water. A cold bath is not only disagreeable, but can also cause rapid hypothermia. Bathing indoors is a challenge; as all escape routes need to be considered.

The following are some basic guidelines for bathing your dog:

• Make sure that all your supplies are within reach before putting your pet into the tub. Dogs don't seem to remain in the tub very long when left alone. Your supplies should include shampoo, conditioner, scissors, several towels, cotton balls and a plastic container (for rinsing). If you are planning to clip the toenails, make sure that the nail clippers are also within reach.
• Clipping a dog's toenails often causes some bleeding. If bleeding occurs, a dab of Stypic powder (or another veterinary recommended powder) on the affected nail usually does the trick. Sometimes, several applications of the powder are necessary. If you are hesitant to clip your dog's nails, have it done at your local veterinary hospital or pet grooming salon.
• A rubber mat should be placed in the bottom of the tub so your dog's feet don't slide around, and so he or she will feel more secure and safe. Most dogs don't want to be there in the first place, so you need to make them feel as comfortable as possible.
• Place one or several cotton balls in each of your dog's ears. Don't push the cotton too far down the ear canal; however, it does need to remain securely in place. The cotton helps keep water out of his or her ears. A drop of artificial tears (placed in the corner of each eye) prevents the shampoo from irritating the eyes.
• Properly lift your dog in the tub, avoiding injury to both you and your dog. Place one arm in front of the dog's chest and one arm behind the rear legs, just under the tail. Make sure you bend your knees (not your back) when lifting, particularly if the dog is heavy. If your pet is too heavy to lift by yourself, always get help. Nothing hurts more than an injured back.
• Turn the water on slowly and adjust the temperature. The water should be lukewarm. Thoroughly wet his or her coat down with the spray hose starting from the back end moving forward. Then, begin lathering your pet. Work the shampoo into a thick, rich lather. If you are using flea shampoo, some brands recommend leaving it on for several minutes. Read the directions on the container and follow them carefully or the results may not be achieved. Lather the main body, stomach, legs, feet, and tail.
• Finally, pour a small amount of shampoo into your hands and gently lather the fur around the face and on the head. Be careful not to get the lather into your dog's eyes.
• When rinsing, start with the head and work towards the rear. Cover your dog's eyes with your hand and gently rinse off the top of the head and around the eyes. Then, gently cover your dog's nose and rinse off the rest of the face and neck. Next, work your way down the body, making sure to rinse out all of the suds and shampoo.
• If you are applying a conditioner, now is the time. Make sure you follow the manufacturers recommendations for applying the product. If a conditioner is applied, another rinse is probably necessary.
• Remove the cotton balls from his or her ears and gently squeeze any excess water from the coat.

The drying process is generally the part that dogs like best. Most dogs enjoy getting a vigorous rub down. To finish drying your pet, a hair dryer can be used. Never use a high heat setting and pay careful attention. Do not allow your dog to become overheated.

If you have questions about the type of shampoo, how often to bathe your pet, or whether or not to use a conditioner, don't hesitate to call your veterinarian.

You can learn a lot about the health of your pet from his or her urine. This smelly yellow liquid provides a variety of clues that can help your veterinarian solve the mystery of your pet's health.

Like people, pets should have yellow urine that has a characteristic odor. Most pets develop a pattern and urinate with the same frequency each day.

Changes in frequency of urination, blood in the urine and pain during urination are common signs of infection and/or irritation. Most pet owners are very good at noticing these signs.

Your pet's urine can be collected at home or in the veterinary hospital. The 'free catch' method for collecting urine can be done at home. When walking your dog, slip a plastic bowl or container under his leg when he stops to urinate. To speed up the process, you can feed your dog several ice cubes before leaving for the walk. Free catch does not require intensive labor, money, or time, nor does it upset your pet. There are some disadvantages to the free catch method. The free catch method does not provide sterile urine and may be contaminated by bacteria from the environment. If the urine is not transported immediately to the hospital, some of the tests may yield inaccurate results.

Urine Collection Vial

Your veterinarian or a veterinary technician can obtain a fresh urine sample from your pet by catheterizing the bladder. This collection procedure requires the animal's cooperation and often requires sedation.

Once the urine is obtained, the first thing examined is the sediment. Sediment refers to the cells floating in the urine. An increased number of white blood cells signals inflammation and helps with the diagnosis of a bladder infection. With bladder infections, large numbers of bacteria may also be present.

Urine Sediment of a Dog.
White Blood Cells and Bacteria are Shown

Due to the long length of the urethra, female dogs are more prone to urinary tract infections than male dogs. Diabetic animals have an increased amount of glucose in the urine, which may promote bacterial growth and cause infection.

Animals can form bladder stones due to a genetic condition, if urine flow is decreased or if the bladder wall is irritated. Stones can sometimes be seen on x-rays and they can often be located during ultrasound examination. Surgery is usually required to remove large bladder stones.

X-Ray Showing 2 Bladder Stones

Examination of the urine is also important for diagnosing kidney disease. The specific gravity (of the urine) compares the weight of urine to the weight of water, detecting functional problems with the kidneys. The specific gravity indicates how well the animal is concentrating its urine. If the specific gravity is low (approaching that of water), the kidneys may not be eliminating the body's waste products properly into the urine. Instead of eliminating the waste products into the urine, they accumulate in the blood stream and cause problems.

Various minerals can solidify in urine to form casts and crystals. The presence of calcium oxalate crystals, for example, can be found as a result of ethylene glycol (antifreeze) toxicity. Ammonium biurate crystals are red flags for liver disease. The most commonly found crystals are triple phosphate (magnesium ammonium phosphate) and can signify a bladder infection.

Various Urinary crystals (A) Calcium Oxalate Crystals (B) Uric Acid Crystals
(C) Triple Phosphate Crystals with Amorphous Phosphates (D) Cystine Crystals

The kidney is composed of a series of tubules that aid in making urine. Substances are either absorbed back into the body or excreted in the tubules as urine. If casts are found in the urine, this may indicate a problem with the tubules in the kidney. Casts are solid clumps of protein cells or red and white blood cells. These cells collect in the tubules and are shed sporadically. These casts have a tube-like shape and can be seen under a microscope.

Large Granular Urinary Cast

Red Cell Granular Cast and Numerous Erythrocytes.
Early Stages of Acute Kidney Disease

Urine is so much more than a waste product. Your pet's urine test means a lot for his or her health. It provides many interesting diagnostic clues that help determine what's going on inside your pet!

One of the best ways to strengthen the bond between you and your cat is to play games together. When you play with your cat, you become the most interesting object in his or her life. Not only is playtime fun for your cat, it's also a great way to get your cat to exercise, both mentally and physically.

Following are six games you can play with your cat. Not every feline will want to play every game on this list, but certainly there are at least a few games here that you and your cat will enjoy. While most of them require objects you may have around the house, there are also a number of toys available that provide the same fun. The key is to actually play with your cat in order to create a fun and lasting relationship with your cat while also keeping them trim and healthy.

Paw Hockey - Play this game in a room with hardwood, tile, or linoleum floors that has at least 10 square feet of free floor space. Break off an eight-inch square of aluminum foil and scrunch it up into a hockey puck shape. (Please remember that foil balls should always be thrown away at the end of the game. They are fine for games, but are not safe for unsupervised play.) Show your cat the puck and then flick it with your fingers so that it goes skittering across the floor. Your cat will then chase after the puck, batting it with his paws and making it scoot from one end of the room to the other. If your cat starts to lose interest in the game, pick up the puck and give it another flick.

Staircase Dash - With your cat at the top of the stairs and you at the bottom, fling a ping pong ball to the top of the staircase, against the side wall, one or two steps in front of where your cat is sitting. The ball bounces down the stairs and your cat should race down the stairs chasing after it. When the ball reaches the bottom of the stairs, probably with your cat just a step behind, fling the ball back up to the top of the staircase. Keep tossing the ball up the steps until your cat gets tired.

Bathtub Scurry - Put a ping pong ball in a clean, dry bathtub. Remove the bottles of shampoo and bars of soap and plug the drain so the ping pong ball doesn't get lodged there. Put your cat in the bathtub, show him the ping pong ball, and bounce the ball off the side of the bathtub. As the ball bounces around, your cat should chase after it. If the ball starts to slow down, give it a good roll off the side to get it moving again and to keep up your cat's interest.

Chase the Thing on the String - Get an aluminum foil ball, hollow plastic Whiffle ball, or catnip mouse and tie it to a three-foot piece of twine or heavy string. Pull the string along the floor in front of you, over the cat furniture, or up and down your staircase and let your cat chase after the object. Be sure to allow your cat to capture the object every once in awhile so he/she can feel like a successful predator.

Shadows on the Wall - Turn off the lights in the evening and shine a flashlight on a nearby wall. Dangle bouncy cat toys or other small objects in the light and move them back and forth so their shadows race up and down the wall. Your cat should leap up at the wall trying to catch the elusive prey.

Most people think that when a dog licks their face, the dog is giving kisses. In fact, dogs do not kiss. Although face licking can reasonably be interpreted as a compliment, it is not kissing as we understand it. Many dogs will lick whatever they can get their tongues on; hands, feet, faces, elbows and ears. In order to have a better understanding of the differences between what we consider kissing and our dogs consider licking, we need to know why dogs lick.

Types of Licking

Licking is seen first in the mother-infant situation when a bitch grooms her pups after birth. This helps clean the pups and also stimulates their breathing. This continues into puppyhood; the mother's licking not only cleans the pups but encourages them to eliminate. Human mothers bathe their infants and change diapers because they care, but no one would confuse the act of bathing or changing diapers with kissing. Because dogs can manipulate things better with their mouths than with their paws, it makes sense for them to use their tongues when it comes to cleaning. As a veterinary behaviorist so eloquently put it, a tongue is a dog's toilet paper.

Pups eventually groom themselves and also engage in a certain amount of grooming other dogs. Called allogrooming, this is a care-giving behavior that enhances bonding between individuals. It's very satisfying for dogs to have a buddy help out with those hard-to-reach places, and reciprocation increases the likelihood of future interactions. Allogrooming appears to be a gesture of goodwill and appeasement. It could be classified, along with rolling over and urination, as a sign of submission. Humans and other primates also groom and massage each other by way of pleasurable exchange. The significance of this behavior is similar, denoting friendly intentions and serving as a mechanism for reducing stress.

Pups lick their mother's face around the time they are making the transition from milk to solid food. This face licking is part of a greeting ritual in the wild when a bitch returns from hunting with a belly full of food. The purpose of face licking in this context is to get mom to regurgitate partly-digested stomach contents for the pups' dining pleasure. This type of face licking still occurs in domestic dogs, sometimes with the same result.

Another form of licking that dogs display is licking their own lips. Initially, this behavior may have evolved for the purpose of cleaning their lips after eating, but it now serves as an indicator of stress. It is similar to lip-biting in humans. Lip licking decreases as pups gain in confidence and feel more comfortable with their surroundings, but it doesn't disappear entirely, even in adult dogs. You might see a dog nervously licking his lips as he ponders his fate in a veterinary office.

Many animal scientists characterize face licking as submissive behavior. This is because face licking, like lip licking, is exhibited by dogs in situations of stress or conflict. Face licking is likely to occur when a subordinate dog has summoned up enough courage to approach a more dominant one. This brings up a possible parallel between face licking by dogs and kissing in non-human primates. Apparently, kissing is a common greeting behavior expressed when a subordinate chimpanzee greets a more dominant one. The dominant chimp may, in return, also kiss the subordinate during such meetings, though kissing by the more dominant chimp is only about half as likely. Could it be that when your dog greets you at the door with wagging tail and licks your face as you kneel to say "Hi" that he is actually acknowledging you as his leader?

Prevention of Unwanted Licking Behavior

Although some face licking is tolerable, "no lick" is a useful command to master. It should be incorporated into the training of all dogs that lick their owners excessively, preferably from an early age. No punishment should be employed during training; in fact, punishment is totally inappropriate and will teach the dog nothing except how to avoid the punishment. It is far better to reward the behavior that you want to promote. This can be achieved using a voice cue, "no lick", patient, motionless waiting on the part of the owner, and a valued reward (a treat, perhaps), delivered instantaneously, for stopping licking. If the licking continues, a veterinary behaviorist can be contacted to help provide additional recommendations.

While many of us enjoy our dog's "kisses", it is important to remember that what humans define as a voluntary act of affection may not be a dog's intention. Licking, in general, is harmless and can be considered normal dog-to-owner behavior. If the licking becomes obsessive, training your dog to only lick on command is a reasonable way to curb the unwanted behavior. Once a dog has been taught when licking is appropriate and how much is tolerated, receiving "kisses" from your dog is more appreciated. Understanding the behavior behind your dog's actions can only help you strengthen the bond between both of you.

Scientists believe that the predecessor to the first land carnivores was most likely an animal called Miacis. Miacis lived about 55 million years ago and fossils show that the animal looked somewhat like a weasel.

Drawing of a Miacis Skeleton

The cat family split from other mammals about 40 million years ago, making them one of the oldest mammalian families. The best-known cats of pre-history were probably the saber-toothed cats (Smilodon) that lived during the late Pleistocene era (1.8 million to 10,000 years ago). Saber-toothed tigers, forerunners of the modern cat, were named for their sharp dagger-like canines. Able to kill full-grown elephants, these animals were plentiful in Europe, Asia, Africa and North America. Their small brain, large body and cumbersome teeth led to their extinction about 10,000 years ago.

Saber-Toothed Tiger

Although the saber-toothed cat has no close living relatives, paleontologists reconstruct how Smilodon looked by comparing its bones with those of large cats living today. Often called a saber-tooth tiger, Smilodon was not actually related to the tiger, although it may have behaved a bit like one. Scientists have determined that the saber tooth's skeleton was not built for speed. Very powerful front legs and a short tail indicate that it probably ambushed its prey, goring it with those fearsome canine teeth and leaving the victim to bleed to death.

Wild cats are believed to have evolved in Africa, and due to continental drift, eventually arrived in South America. About 2 million years ago, when North America and South America joined together, the cat made it's migration northward.

Evolutionary biologists agree that the domestic cat is a cross between Felis sylvestris (European wildcat) and Felis lybica (African wildcat). Of all the cats in existence, the domestic cat is the only one that has agreed to live with humans. Due to this fact, the domestic cat has been given the name "Felis domestica."

Cats were first domesticated by the Egyptians around 3000 BC in order to control the rodent problem in their cities. Since the Egyptians stored grain in woven reed baskets, rodents were able to chew through these baskets and eat the grain. With no devices, poisons or traps to fight the increasing rodent population, rats and mice swarmed through the cities. During this period, a small yellow cat with black stripes (the predecessor of today's domestic cat) began coming into the cities in order to feast on the rodents. The Egyptians welcomed these visitors and encouraged them to stay. The Egyptians named their new domestic animal "mau."

After realizing that cats had helped them solve their rodent problem, the Egyptians began holding them in high regard. Not only did the cat gradually take up residence in Egyptian households, but came to be revered and worshiped as being godlike. Bast, the Egyptian goddess of fecundity and beauty was depicted with the head of a cat. This beautiful goddess was the symbol of light, heat and solar energy. It was believed that she controlled fertility, cured illnesses and took care of the dead souls. According to Egyptian history, cats were held in such high regard that their export was forbidden, and the penalty for killing a cat was immediate death.

Cats were mummified after death and buried in sanctified plots, often with supplies of mummified mice for the afterlife. In 1890, one such plot was found to contain the remains of 300,000 cat mummies. The mummies were wrapped in expensive colorful cloth and enclosed in engraved wooden cases. Many of these mummies were distributed to museums around the world.

Since they reproduced prolifically and lived long and healthy lives, the Egyptian cat population began to swell. For a long time, Egypt had held a strict rule that cats could not leave the country. Despite this rule, the Egyptians began selling cats to the Greeks. After several years of breeding, the Greeks started selling cats to the Romans, the Gaels, the Celts and later to the Europeans. Resulting from trade relationships between Asia and Europe, cats were being exchanged for silk. The Asians loved their cats and began breeding them right away. Several distinct breeds of cats were produced in Asia, such as the Siamese, the Balinese, and the Himalayan.

Previous to the introduction of the domestic cat, the only mouse hunters in ancient Europe were semi-domesticated weasels and skunks. The Romans, and to a certain extent, the Greeks, introduced the domestic cat to the rest of Europe. In European countries, the cat was not worshipped but kept as a companion as well as a rodent hunter. However, by the time the Black Death appeared in the 11th century, cats were once again held in high esteem for their rodent killing abilities.

The Middle Ages in Europe were the worst times for cats. Cats were believed to be agents of the devil, and thought to possess magical powers. Pope Gregory IX declared the cat to be a "diabolical creature" and authorized a total persecution. Persons who kept cats were suspected of being witches, and were put to death along with their feline companions. With rat extermination becoming urgently necessary, cats were beaten, killed and driven away from towns and villages.

In Tudor England, cats were burned as a sign of both Protestant and Catholic heresy. During the inquisition, the burning of heretics, Jews, witches and cats were just some of the atrocities that were committed. By the 15th century, the European cat was on the verge of extinction, thus allowing the population of rats to increase. For lack of cats, more than two thirds of Europe died from the Bubonic plague.

Eventually the witch-hunts ceased and cats once again became highly prized and beloved household pets.

Cats were first domesticated over 5000 years ago and have since become one of the most popular pets in the world. The first record of domestic cats in Great Britain dates back to 936 AD. By the mid 18th century, cats were fairly abundant in the United States. By the late 1800s distinctive breeds were being established and cat shows held, with the long-haired breeds being especially popular.

Although the North American continent had many varieties of wild cats, there had been no history of domestic cats preceding the arrival of the Europeans. The first domestic cats were imported in order to control the rodent population in the settlements. Eventually, cats became quite popular and the first American breed, the Maine Coon Cat, was established.

The Maine Coon Cat

Domestic cats now live on every continent except Antarctica and have been bred into more than fifty distinct breeds.

When explaining pet death to children, it is important to be straightforward and honest. For many children, a pet's death is the first time they experience grief over death. Handling a pet's death in a positive way empowers children to handle grief in the future.

The terminology that is used when explaining pet death to children is crucial. Euphemisms and clichés do not work. When explaining pet loss, use the words "death," "dead," and "dying" instead of "putting to sleep," "with the angels," or "visiting Uncle Harry" (an uncle who died a few months ago). These are all concrete words that children can wrap their brains around. Be clear, because children's minds may extrapolate harmful connotations from sugar-coated explanations.

A common euphemism for euthanasia is "put to sleep." There is no reason why children wouldn't think of this as a reversible process - "If the pet is asleep, let's just wake him up." Lying to your children by telling them that the pet ran away or that you gave it to a friend is a bad idea. Your children may exhaust every possibility looking for a lost pet, and the empty feeling of a pet that suddenly disappeared is worse than the truth about euthanasia. All of this only gives children a different kind of grief. If you say that you gave their pet to a friend, they wonder why their best friend would abandon them or why their parents would want to separate them from a creature that meant so much to them.

Instead, if you have made the decision to euthanize, it's a good idea to explain it in these terms - because we love Fluffy so much we do not want her to suffer. We are helping her to die because she is experiencing pain that we can no longer treat.

Talk about the death of a pet before the death occurs. Involve your child in the decision-making process. Not including children in the process makes them feel completely powerless about what is going on with their pet. If the pet has a terminal disease, talk honestly about the options with your children.

If the decision is made to euthanize a pet, your veterinarian can explain the medical aspects of death. The veterinarian can describe how euthanasia is done, and how the pet will look in death - the eyes do not close and the body may be warm for a few hours then later become stiff. If the pet dies or need to be euthanized as a result of an injury or traumatic accident, the veterinarian can also explain what went wrong.

Parents often wonder if a child should be allowed to be with the pet during death and see the body afterward. It may be a good idea to ask a child what he or she wants to do. If the parent or child does not want to be present during the euthanasia process, then they can go back into the room to say goodbye. Seeing that the pet is actually dead often helps give children and parents a sense of closure.

Grief issues do not just happen in the veterinary hospital; they happen after the children (as well as the adults) leave. Sometimes the grieving occurs months, or even years, later. During the grieving process, family members at various age levels will react differently. Children under two can sense stress in the house even though they do not know the cause. If this is the case, comforting them and paying extra attention to them may help. Children two to five years old typically believe they are invincible and regard death as a reversible feat that cartoons like the roadrunner and coyote enact. Although they may not understand that their pet is dead, explaining death concretely now helps them understand it better at a later date.

Eight-year-olds might understand that death is irreversible; however, in their minds, the universe revolves around them. If they think bad thoughts like, 'I don't want to walk Fluffy today. I wish she would just die' and then a couple months later, Fluffy dies, a child this age might believe that their bad thoughts caused the death of the pet.

Showing your own grief in front of your child is healthy. Grieving and crying in front of a child validates to the child that these emotions are OK to express. Hiding grief might make children wonder why you don't miss Fluffy. This could lead to them wondering if you would be sad if they died.

Children may react in ways that surprise adults. They may draw pictures of their pet underground, bury dolls, or ask shocking questions about what is happening to their pet's buried body. All of these responses are normal and healthy.

Families can be creative about memorializing their pet. Plant a tree. Put an engraved stone in your cat's favorite spot in the house. Encourage children to draw pictures. Each family member should be encouraged to memorialize their pet's death in a way that is meaningful to them.

If you or a member of your family is having trouble dealing with the loss of a pet, call your veterinary hospital for information. There are many Pet Hotline telephone services and counseling services available to families that have lost a pet.